Buyer's guide · 115V deep well pump
Red Lion RL12G05-2W1V (115V) review:
when 115V is right — and its real limits
Same pump end as Red Lion's 230V unit, wound for 115V instead — which means 12A running current instead of 6A. That single fact, not horsepower or GPM, is what decides whether this is the correct item number for your well. Here's when 115V is the right or only call, and where it stops working.
By Tim Parker — Reads the spec sheets and prices the full install
What it is
The RL12G05-2W1V is Red Lion's 115-volt, 2-wire 4-inch submersible deep well pump — item number 14942401. It is the same 1/2 HP pump end as the 230V RL12G05-2W2V, wound for 115V instead of 230V. Same 12 GPM output, same 212 ft shut-off, same physical pump — the difference that matters is the motor windings and the amp draw that results.
The numbers Red Lion publishes
| Checkpoint | RL12G05-2W1V (per Red Lion) | Our read |
|---|---|---|
| Motor / voltage | 1/2 HP, 2-wire, 115V | No separate control box to mount |
| Amp draw | 12A running | Double the current of the 230V version — plan wire gauge accordingly |
| Flow | 12 GPM max; 12 GPM at 40 ft / 30 PSI | Identical output to the 230V version |
| Shut-off head | 212 ft maximum | A ceiling, not a target |
| Casing | Fits 4-inch or larger drilled wells | Hard constraint — measure first |
| Discharge | 1-1/4" FNPT | Standard fitting size |
| Rated depth | To 250 ft wells | Usable flow drops before the 212 ft shut-off limit |
| Materials | Stainless steel shell, thermoplastic discharge/bracket, built-in check valve | Same construction as the 230V version |
| Warranty | 3-year premium warranty | Same as the 230V version |
Specifications above are Red Lion's own published figures at redlionproducts.com. Red Lion's page does not publish a maximum recommended wire-run distance for this model at 115V — that is a wire-gauge and voltage-drop calculation, not a fixed spec, and is addressed below.
When 115V is the right call — or the only one
Replacing an existing 115V pump.If your well is already wired to a single-pole breaker with one hot conductor, matching the replacement pump's voltage to what is in the ground is the straightforward, lower-cost path. Converting the circuit to 230V for a pump swap alone rarely pencils out.
Cabins, seasonal properties, and outbuildings without a 230V service. Not every structure has two-pole service run to it. Where only 115V is available at the panel, this is the item that works — not a compromise version of the 230V pump, but the only one the circuit can drive.
Short wire runs. The 12A-vs-6A gap matters most as distance increases. On a short run from panel to wellhead, the extra current at 115V rarely forces a wire-gauge upgrade over what a 230V install would use, which narrows the practical gap between the two versions considerably.
The real limitation: 12A and voltage drop over distance
Red Lion's spec sheet lists 12A running current for this 115V version against 6A for the identical pump wound at 230V — the same wattage delivered at half the voltage draws double the current, a fixed relationship of electrical power, not a design choice either way. The consequence is voltage drop: for the same wire gauge and the same run length, the 115V pump's higher current produces roughly twice the voltage drop of the 230V version. Push the run far enough at an undersized gauge and the voltage reaching the motor falls low enough to reduce starting torque and running performance — the pump can struggle to start correctly, run hot, or fail prematurely, even though every component is rated correctly on paper.
Red Lion's own spec sheet does not publish a maximum wire-run distance for this model — that figure depends on the specific wire gauge installed and the voltage-drop tolerance for your circuit, which the National Electrical Code's voltage-drop guidance or a licensed electrician should confirm for your exact run. What the spec sheet does make clear is the starting point: at 12A, this version needs a heavier wire gauge than the 6A 230V version to hold the same voltage drop over an identical distance. For a well close to the panel, that difference is often a non-issue. For a well set well back from the house, it can mean stepping up one or two wire gauges — a real added material cost specific to choosing 115V over 230V, not to the pump itself.
Practically: if you have any choice in the matter — new construction, a full rewire, an outbuilding you are wiring from scratch — and the well is any real distance from the panel, run 230V and buy the 2W2V version instead. Choose this 115V version when the circuit is already fixed at 115V, or the run is short enough that the gauge difference is immaterial.
2-wire design and sizing, unchanged from the 230V version
Everything about the pump end itself is identical to the 230V version: 2-wire design means the starting capacitor lives inside the motor housing, not a separate surface-mounted control box — one fewer enclosure to install and maintain, with the same caveat that a failed motor still comes out of the well on the drop pipe regardless of wire count. Sizing rules are also identical: get static water level and drawdown from your well record, add elevation to the pressure tank, and check that total against the 212 ft shut-off with margin — not against it exactly, since flow falls as head rises. The 4-inch minimum casing requirement is a hard physical constraint either way.
Well depth, not the pump's price, is still what drives replacement cost: pulling every foot of drop pipe out of the casing to service or replace the pump is the labor-intensive part of the job, and that scales with depth regardless of which voltage version is on the end of the pipe.
115V vs 230V, side by side
| Spec | RL12G05-2W1V (115V) | RL12G05-2W2V (230V) |
|---|---|---|
| HP / GPM / shut-off | Identical: 1/2 HP, 12 GPM, 212 ft | Identical: 1/2 HP, 12 GPM, 212 ft |
| Amp draw | 12A — double the current | 6A |
| Breaker type | Single-pole (1 slot) | Double-pole (2 slots) |
| Best fit | Cabins, outbuildings, existing 115V-only wiring | Most homes with a 230V well circuit already run |
| Long wire runs | May need heavier gauge to hold voltage drop | Less demanding at the same gauge and distance |
Who shouldn't buy this one
Anyone wiring new with a long run and full freedom to choose. If you can run either voltage and the well is set well back from the panel, the 230V version is the lower-current, lower-drop choice for the identical pump.
Wells narrower than 4 inches, or deeper than the flow curve supports at usable GPM. Confirm casing diameter and expected flow at your actual depth before ordering.
Households needing more than 12 GPM at depth. For deep or high-demand wells, see the higher-output Hallmark Industries MA0414X-7A instead.
The call
Buy the 115V item when that is what your panel and drop cable already run, or when a 230V service simply isn't available — not as a lower-cost substitute for the 230V version. On a long wire run, plan the gauge for 12A, not 6A.
Have a choice and a long run to the well? Read the 230V version first. Need the whole picture on pumps and tanks? Well pumps and pressure tanks.
Questions buyers actually ask
Why would anyone choose a 115V well pump over 230V?
You choose 115V when that is what is already run to the well, not as a preference between two equal options. Cabins, seasonal properties, and outbuildings without a 230V service are common cases, as is straightforward replacement of an existing 115V pump — matching voltage to the existing single-pole breaker and conductor pair avoids an electrician converting the circuit. If you are wiring an installation from scratch with full freedom to choose, Red Lion's own catalog identifies 230V as the more common residential setup, largely because of the lower current draw.
Does 12A draw actually matter for a 115V well pump?
Yes, more than the number alone suggests. Twelve amps is double the 6A that Red Lion's 230V version of the identical pump draws for the same 1/2 HP, 12 GPM output. Higher current over a fixed wire gauge produces more voltage drop across a given length of conductor — a physical relationship, not a Red Lion-specific one. On a short run from panel to wellhead this is rarely a practical issue; on a long run, it can mean needing a heavier wire gauge than the 230V version would require to stay within acceptable voltage drop, which can add real cost to a new installation.
What's the practical wire-run limit for a 115V, 12A well pump?
Red Lion's published spec sheet for this item does not state a maximum wire-run distance — that figure depends on the wire gauge used and the acceptable voltage drop for your installation, which is a calculation an electrician or the National Electrical Code's voltage-drop tables should confirm for your specific run length and gauge. What can be stated plainly from the spec sheet: at 12A, the 115V version requires a heavier gauge than the 6A 230V version to hold the same voltage drop over the same distance. The longer your run, the more that gauge difference costs in copper.
Can I convert a 115V well circuit to 230V to use the other version?
Only with new wiring and a double-pole breaker — a 115V circuit's single hot conductor and single-pole breaker cannot simply be relabeled for 230V. Converting means pulling new conductors from the panel (potentially all the way down the well if the drop cable itself needs to change) and replacing the breaker. For most homeowners replacing a failed pump, matching the new pump to the existing circuit is the lower-cost path; converting only makes sense if you were already planning an electrical upgrade.